Bamboo Tips - Tips Area - Storage

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From my experience with restoring old rods the moisture content in finished rods can make quite a difference to the action.  Rods which were useless noodles can have their action changed considerably by being dried out. If I am stripping and restoring and old rod I try to hang it in my drying cabinet for 3-4 weeks after it has been stripped. For some old rods there is a considerable change in the action. For new rods (and not so new rods) that I fish with I hang them on hooks in the hot water cupboard (next to the hot water cylinder) over the winter. The temperature there is always warm. I also recommend to people who buy rods that they do the same. I think it was Michael Sinclair who originally suggested this sort of winter storage. It is not very scientific but seems to work. (Ian Kearney)

A safe alternative to drying out a finished rod is to hang the sections in a heated varnish drying cabinet for awhile if you have one. I do this regularly even with my own personal  varnished rods once in a while. (Shawn Pineo)

I'm in the process of laying out a rod bag for a two tipped rod. how do some of you guys arrange things within the bag? I was thinking about the butt on one side with the ferrule plug down into the bag (should plug point up?) and the 2 tips in separate compartments (tip tops up) on the other side of the bag. does the ferrule plug normally stay on the rod or do you guys store it in a little pocket on the bag? why do you need the plug when the rod is in the bag?  (Mark Pohl)

The purpose of the ferrule plug is to keep out dust and  to keep the inside of the female from tarnishing (which is the reason I believe that perfectly fitting ferrules tighten and need to be refitted after a couple months). The butt and tip sections are put in the bag ferrule first  with the ferrule plug installed.  (Marty DeSapio)

I put the butt section inside the  bag with the reel seat first. Why? I've seen a few tip tops that were straightened out due to the reel seat banging them against the top of the rod tube. Also, contributing to this problem is the rod tube having too much length, which allows the rod wiggle-room by which to accomplish the tiptop straightening.  (Martin-Darrell)

I've always put the rod in the bag butt first. It's the obvious way to do it after all. When fishing how do you put the rod against a tree? Which end is least prone to damage in the event of a shock loading in the event of dropping the tube assuming it's right way up? I've always found the tradition of tip end to the bottom of the bag a strange one and all I can think of as being the reason is it takes less fabric to make the rod bag that way and in the early days fabric was so scarce  and expensive every inch counted.  (Tony Young)

When ordering a tube, what size tube should I get? how much longer than the rod should the tube be? is a 42" tube 42" inside?  (Mark Pohl)

It is always best to order the tube longer and cut to size once you receive it. You can remove either the bottom or cap & collar by dropping a piece of steel pipe (a little smaller than the inside of the rod tube) in the tube and "popping off" either  end. Cut to length and reinstall. Sometimes if the friction fit is not tight enough I use the blue Locktite adhesive.  (Marty DeSapio)

At least a couple of sources, REC and Golden Witch, (no financial interest in either, but satisfied customer of both) sell rod tubes with the collars unattached.  You simply measure the length carefully, cut the tube to length, and glue the collar on.  I just use epoxy.  (Robert Kope)

Do this to keep those keep those ferrules safe.

Take 1/2" of closed cell foam and cut it into a circle. Push it into the bottom of the tube with a dowel or broom handle. The foam can be cut from a cheap Morey Boogie type kick board.  This will absorb any shock the sections my receive while in the tubes.  (Adam Vigil)

Good idea, but the rods still belong in the tube with the female ferrule UP!  (John Channer)

You're both right.  I use cork sheets for the inside of both ends.  (Rob Clarke)

It's good to use PVC...

• You can lash the PVC tubes to your pontoon boat and you won't even care if the oars scrape them.
• You can lay it in the bottom of a drift boat and not care what steps on it.
• You can find it easier in the dark (vs. wood, black, brown or dark colored tubes).
• You can cut it with ratcheted anvil tool in about 30 seconds.
• You can make a new one in one minute if you screw one up.
• They don't rust, oxidize, or corrode.
• You don't mind hitting it with a wrench when the top gets stuck.
• You can let 'em roll around in the trunk and they don't clink or make much noise.
• The airlines think they are important plans or papers and rarely bother you once you get by the security scanners especially with a few stickers on it or better yet, in a cardboard mailer.
• You can use it for a walking stick without clinking, cringing or worrying about ruining the looks of the tube.
• You have an excuse to go to the hardware store when you build the tubes and can really say - "think how much money I've saved here!"

More?  (Rick Crenshaw)

Some may not like the PVC for rod tubes for cane but they do perform great. A wood tube is pretty but is best suited for home storage and presentation. A $65 aluminum rod tube is great but they do get scratched and scared easily and if you travel give thieves a lot of ideas. A PVC rod tube for travel is very strong. I throw them into the trunk with all kinds of crap and if they get scratch who cares. They are plain and draw no attention. They are more heat resistant then aluminum. This is a plus when your rod is in your car on a hot summer day.

If  you get a sense of joy pulling your rod out of a aluminum tube that is OK. Just do not leave it on the back seat of your car or you may come back to  a broken window and some of your gear gone. A PVC rod tube just does not seem to get  attention. Besides for $2 bucks it is hard to beat.

I guess if the old time rodmakers were against changing tradition they never would have switched to aluminum in the first place. It is rather a new material. And if there are those set on following what the old makers did remember they either started to make fiberglass rods or they went out of business. I am not interested in following that tradition.  (Adam Vigil)

A small issue needs to be raised concerning PVC tubes, especially the lighter weight Schedule 10 and Schedule 20 stuff.  If left leaning in a corner at a severe angle, in a hot place, they will take a set, and so will the rod inside...  Trust me, I seem to learn every lesson the hard way.  Schedule 40 seems impervious to heat up to about 200 degrees, but is more expensive, and heavier than aluminum.

Also, by the time one pays for $3 worth of PVC tubing, and $8 worth of end cap and male and female screw fittings for the PVC, you've got $11 in the PVC tube, plus glue and time and effort.  For $17 each I buy nice aluminum tubes, black powder coated with my logo silk screened on them.  Guess which ones I buy?  If you are worried about them getting stolen, store them in the trunk of your car, or under the seat of your truck.  Landmark Components (970)278-1311 , no web site, and tell Ron Cilli that I sent you.  (no interest, etc.)

They do an adequate job of protecting the rod, though they are not bomb proof.  I can't imagine paying $65 for an aluminum tube though, and would agree with you that that's too much money to pay.  (Harry Boyd)

I can see a point here, I thought I was getting carried away when I started making a Nova Scotia Tartan rod bag AND a Nova Scotia Tartan bag for the $100+ aluminum rod tubes I use.

I agree $100 is a lot for a rod tube,  just crazy I guess. Oh, by the way, those ones are almost bomb proof!  (Shawn Pineo)

When I traveled down here to New Zealand, I made up a PVC rod case out of 10" "drain" tube. I had 7 rods and a wooden planning form in it. I stuffed some T-shirts in the bottom and top, so it kept the rods still in the tube. I didn't have any lock on it, nor did I check it in as fragile goods. I did however have to take it to a different check in, cause it would jam in the suitcase travel band.  Also I used a lot of duct tape to prevent the end caps to come loose. The rods arrived safely.  (Danny Twang)

I have had a 2" schedule 40 PVC, with 4 rods in it, broken by the airlines.  Schedule 40 has little flexibility.  The best thing I have used is a 4" telescoping rod case called the "Bazooka".  I forget who makes it but they are available in places like Gander Mountain, etc.  Mine has been on many flights without incident.  The only weakness is the latch on the cover but all I do is wrap several layers of duct tape around it.  I really like it.  (John Long)

Is that the Plano case?  I've got one of those that works like a charm.  I think I packed 6-8 rods of various configurations when I went to Canada.  (Todd Talsma)

I got many many advices on this.  A friend of mine here offered me to use his bazooka, finally.

Points are:

Layered duct tape on cap
Check in with notice of fishing rods
Poor looks against thief
Sponge rubber around rods aren't these?  (Max Satoh)

Bought a DB Dunn case to haul my rods to New Zealand.  Worked great, PVC liner with Cordura outer, 4" diameter and the zipper on the cap has a lock built into it.   (Bob Nunley)

I haven't tried this on an airplane, but a hard side gun case works for me.  I didn't like rod tube rolling around the van, so I quit using them. I got a gun case and modified the padding a little so I can carry 5-6 rods in it. I guest you could modify it more and double the amount.  (David Dziadosz)

I've used a hard side muzzleloader case for longbows and rods a number of times, as well as the Plano case with the hinged cap -- duct tape does help keep it closed up, though.  If you have tubes for them, just put the tubes inside, or slot the foam like David described.  I even duct taped a section of 4" PVC to the outside of the case once and carried 4 dozen arrows form JFK to Murmansk without a problem.  Got a few curious looks from the customs people, but they didn't really care.   It was really funny to watch them when they x-rayed it, though.  (Greg Heidt)

Nothing could get ever me to deviate from traditional rod practices including tubes and cases.  By-the-way, does anyone have a means of removing the manufacturer’s unsightly marking from my PVC tomato stakes?  (Bill Fink)

I think turpentine or most any petroleum based solvent will work. (John Long)

Paint thinner & steel wool.  (Chad Wigham)

I use acetone. It will, however soften the surface if you use too much.  (Steve Weiss)

Alcohol on a rag.  For the really resistant, use acetone.  (Onis Cogburn)

I simply sand the markings off. You start with 400 grit and get most of it off and then use 600 and polish with some 1000 or 1500. To me its a better solution than using a solvent and they come clean fairly easy.  (Bill Walters)

I just buy the aluminum tubes and don't spend all that time scrubbing and sanding 'em up purty.  All that work, and when you're finished, you still have a plastic tube...  seems like I remember something about a silk purse and a sow's ear.  (Harry Boyd)

Harry, I agree.  BUT  which is sturdier?  And would a silk purse be out of place on a muddy stream bank? If I want a really nice rod case, I will make one from Cherry or Walnut or such and do some nice carving or inlay work on it.  But for hauling around in the back of my truck, bouncing on the rack of my bicycle or tramping around in the woods, a PVC case is my personal choice!

I have an aluminum one for one of my rods too.  I even have one cardboard mailing tube for one rod.  Adequate for that particular rod!  (Mark the Mysterious One)

By the way, the mailing tube thing.  Find a good one from the USPS  for shipping documents.  they have plastic ends and cost is fairly nominal.  I obtained one when someone sent me a document and The tube was just the right size for my dorky 6 ft 6 piece that I got from WalMart for $20! (obviously a HIGH quality piece huh?  I mean, it came with flies, a reel and everything.  I DID purchase a WF4 line for it!)   I have caught several fish on it and it stays well protected in it's cardboard hovel.  Meanwhile my more expensive and more fragile "better rods are housed in a motley collection of PVC (buy a piece the right size, two end caps and Viola!  Rod case!  Want a strap?  Find a carrying strap from an old duffle bag or something with two clips on it and tape a couple of 1 1/4 key chain rings to the tube with strapping tape!  Now you can carry it over your shoulder!)

The advantage of PVC is that it is VERY sturdy and waterproof.  I have fancier (by a slim margin) cases, one is a plastic document tube for drawings and such and the other is just the same but made from aluminum.  Both have screw on lids.  These are available at drafting supply places.  Stuff a chunk of foam down them and glue a piece on the inside of the lid and you have a GREAT rod case that cost a LOT less than a more fragile one would. (Mark the Mysterious One)

Lacquer thinner  (John Channer)

PVC rod tubes? Ah, even for my admittedly utilitarian proclivities I think that this is going too far! Are we going to see PVC dual ring reel seats (hopefully with a tasteful rope knurl) next? The Cortland people are very nice to deal with, it is easy to set up a rodbuilder account, and they have a low minimum order of only $50. A 7’ 2 piece tube with a nice domed aluminum cap and collar is only about $9 or 10 dollars and an 8 foot tube is only $10.50. Knock the top off and cut to fit, doesn't even need glue!  (AJ Thramer)

Thanks for posting that... and my apologies to anyone on the list that is offended by my response, but I just never understood why someone would make a thousand dollar (or, in some cases much, much more) rod and put it in a damn piece of plumbing pipe!  I pay about 15 each for my rod tubes, when it's all said and done, shipping and all, and they beat the hell out of anything you can make out of PVC.  Just can't imagine the reaction of one of my sports if I say "Oh yeah.  Sending your $1400 rod out tomorrow.  By the way, forget the aluminum tube, I can save Three Bucks by giving you a piece of plastic pipe instead!!!"   Might as well say, "Hey, your Mercedes is on the way, but we're putting it in a Volkswagen body instead!"  (Bob Nunley)

Who ever said anything about putting someone else's rod in a PVC tube???????  I put my own rods in PVC because I can usually get what I need laying around the job site after the plumbers are done. Also because my own rods live in my work truck and PVC tubes just blend in with the rest of the crap. I don't think I could get away with PVC for the customers, so theirs go in REC tubes, which I most likely pay way too much for.  (John Channer)

What's in those Cordura tubes  that look  so nice?  I'll bet dollars-to-doughnuts they're structurally PVC! Who'd waste Al inside that covering?  (Art Port)

Some think that nice tubes are targets for thieves.  Because of this, I always carry an old blanket in my car. This gets thrown over any fishing tackle that doesn't fit in the "trunk".

Also, beware of buying vanity plates like CANEROD.  These are just an billboard to thieves. I knew one fellow with the license plate DRYFLY that had his car broken into twice, when others were not hit.  (Reed Curry)

I remember reading somewhere that it wasn't a good practice to store your rods in the tubes, but instead to hang them in the bag?  I have always stored mine in the tubes, always after they are dry.  Any thoughts?  In the production era, many rods came with a wooden form, flocked with grooves to protect the rod from damage.  Someone at Grayrock this last year (or was it last year) had a form he had recently made and was using.  Any thoughts?  (Scott Grady)

I always "hang" my rods in the bags as I believe that it is putting less stress on the individual segments and  delays/prevents the introduction of a set. Always make sure they are dry after use especially the handle. God, moldy cork smells terrible and it will stink up everything. Left a graphite rod with a wet handle once and the wife was looking for a dead rodent in the cellar for a week. Finally traced it to the rod and she wouldn't let me out of the cellar until the smell was gone :-) Luckily most of my rod building tools are in the cellar.  (Jim Tefft)

Since we were earlier discussing kits, I had a related question (somewhat).  In addition to finished rods, I provide blanks.  My current practice is to have a few blanks completed (and kept on hand) so that they can be shipped out as blanks or used for a finished rod as needed. I was curious to what the list thinks about moisture reentry on the unfinished blanks that "sit around".  Often I have placed rods in an oven at about 105 degrees but am concerned about the impact on the cork/cork glue.  (Doug Hall)

The "old-timers" painted the ends or dipped them in hot wax to seal them. Most moisture entry would come through the end grain, eh?  (Reed Curry)

That only answers part of the question -- what about the potential reentry of moisture after drying, is it an issue? If it is an issue, what is the best way to dry out a blank that is not impregnated, varnished, oiled, waxed, or otherwise treated to prevent moisture reentering the blank and what effect would that method have on 1) a cork grip, and 2) the glue?  (Larry Puckett)

How about a PVC tube and some desiccant.  (Timothy Troester)

I know one old timer who keeps his finished blanks in an unheated shed in his garden and even after twenty years or so these blanks are just fine as is. Bend them all you want and they never take a set!  (Paul Blakley)

I had some unfinished blanks, about ten years old, and they took a set if bent. They seemed to be glued with white woodworking glue (PVA) and was blond. But after an hour at 100 degrees C they got snappy.  (Danny Twang)

My friend has always used Aerolite 308.  PVA no way!  (Paul Blakley)

Yea, I was using PVA on my first 2 rods, but had problem when heat straightening, it delaminated:-(( Never again! I do however know of a few makers that use it with success...

I've since used PU or epoxy, and are happy with both. I do think the glue is the problem for those blanks, for not being crisp'n snappy I mean. The glue is not as hard as PU or epoxy when cured. I also delaminated some easily with just a bit of heat and a dull knife. The blank came apart like a banana. It's now a nice rod, a Driggs River, which have been my primary all-around rod for years.

I did make a rod of one of the blanks, a monster 9' #7 of very quick taper. It turned out pretty good after a while in my heat oven, and a couple-three coats of varnish . I don't know how the rod is today, but maybe Ian K. can chime in here.  (Danny Twang)

I am finding sets in a few rods that I do not use very often.  I'm  attributing this to storage in the sock and tube.  The rods are straight (for the most part) and dry when put in the case.  Is the weight of the sock enough to put a set in the tip?

What is the preferred method of storage for bamboo rods.  I would think that assembled standing strait up would be a very good way, but I would be afraid of finding a stuck ferrule that would not release at some point.  Unassembled in a rack with a ferrule plug seems like the next choice, but figuring a way to include all the pieces for multiple rods in a rack is stumping me.  Does anyone have any suggestions or plans they would share?  (Mark Petrie)

My wife sews bags for my rods, a compartment for each piece and a hanging loop.  I (intend to) hang them in their bags.  I have about one tube for each length of rod so sometimes rods get left in the tubes and stood in the tube rack, but I have good intentions.  (Bill Lamberson)

I store my rods in a tube with a rod sock just like you do, and I get no sets. I also put a little bag full of desiccant in each tube. Could your sets be the rods taking up humidity?  (Darryl Hayashida)

I rarely use rod tubes. I only have a few, and only use them if I'm taking only one or two rods with me. I like to use a modified hard side gun case. You can stack in quite a few rods without crowding them.

Storage. I hang them in a closet in the rod bag with the butt ends down. I would think the material wrapped around the rod could cause a set especially in the finer tip areas.  (David Dziadosz)

I never store mine in the tubes or socks.  I have a rod rack that I bought several years ago, I think at Bass Pro.  It's like a round display rack that holds 24 sections.   I just put a section in each slot, stand them on end and store them there.  I do have repair jobs here that have been left in tubes for as much as 6 months to a year, but they don't have sets in them unless they came with one from the owner.  Darryl may be right, it may be humidity causing your problem.  (Bob Nunley)

I've never had the problem you cite ( I put my sets in with FISH <BSEG>) but I've heard that using the ties that come with some rod bags can cause problems if tied too tight and for too long. Could that be your problem?  (Art Port)

I remove all my cane rods and hang them in the closet from the loops on the bags or from wooden clothes pins hanging from hooks.  The tips should be up when hanging in the bag.  I don't think it matters much which way you put the butts.  I believe cane rod bags should not have ties and if they do, don't use them.   I've never had tips take a set when hung in this manner.  (Bob Amundson)

I think the only way to store them is hanging them in their bags, suspended by the little loop thingy, or failing that by a large safety pin in the top of the bag,  in a dry well-ventilated cupboard, heavy bits down.

A cupboard with a hot water service is great.

I always put my rods in the bag butt first for the butt section, and ferrule first for the tips, so I always have heavy bits down whether standing for short periods, or hanging for longer storage.  (Peter McKean)

I like to store them in the rod sack, hanging from a loop at the top of the sack.  This way, they're not leaning against anything, they're not in a closed tube, and can adjust to the ambient humidity.  My Dad always stored his good rods this way, and they never took a set from leaning against anything, and never developed mold or mildew.  (Mark Wendt)

I was thinking that there must be some form of "Rod Rack" much like a gun cabinet, to store and protect your rods. How do most of you store your rods? Has anyone ever built something like this? Are there any "Plans"

available that anyone knows of? If so, would they care to share such plans? I would like to think of it as a "Winter" project, maybe something that would store/display my rods as well as hold my fly boxes, vest, hat etc.  (Jimi Genzling)

I hang all my rods in a cabinet I built for that purpose. I keep a small light bulb in there and it does a nice job of keeping an even temperature.  (Mark Dyba)

I hang my cane rods (my carbons and glass are kept in our garage) in our daughter's wardrobe, much to her annoyance.  (Paul Blakley)

What diameter (OD) aluminum tubes do you prefer?  Do you use the same for two and three piece rods?  (Scott Grady)

For 2/2 rods I use the standard 1 5/8".  For 3/2 rods, I like the 1 7/8" tube from Custom Fly Rod Crafters (Los Pinos).  (Rich Margiotta)

I've recently given a rod to a friend and he asked me about storing rods in the tube.

I know the conventional wisdom is to store the rod outside of the tube but I'm not quite sure why. If you are careful about putting the rod away dry and don't have any temperature swings that would cause condensation in the tube, what's the harm of storing the rod in the tube.  (Jim Lowe)

If the rod is at all cramped in the tube, wisdom hold that the cramping can cause the rod to take a set.  Not so sure myself how wise that wisdom really is.

FWIW, I store the few rods I keep on hand in their tubes, with the caps removed.  I got a really nice walnut rack for the tubes for less than $100 from David Poe, whose work I highly recommend.   It allows me to store 18 tubes and/or rods vertically.  (Harry Boyd)

I store all my rods in tubes - PVC pipe with screw on end caps. I also put a little packet of desiccant inside the tube with the rod. I think the tradition of not storing the rods in it's tube was from what was described to me as a "storage set". Apparently some folks feel a rod will take a set because it spends months pressed together and the tip will take on a set because the tip is curved slightly when it is pressed against the handle/reel seat by the rod sock wrapped around the rod. None of my rods exhibit any storage sets in over ten years of storing them in their tubes.  (Darryl Hayashida)

I store all my rods hanging in their socks in the back of a closet.  This way, they stay nice and straight, and I don't have to worry about moisture/wetness sealed in the tube with the rod (they all air dry while hanging).  I only have half a dozen or so tubes (saves loads of money instead of having one tube for every rod), so when I go fishing I decide what rods I'm gonna take, grab a couple of tubes and load 'em up. (Chris Obuchowski)

What are some sources for aluminum rod tubes.  I ordered some from REC for my first rods, and I was wondering if there was a less expensive supplier.  (Aaron Gaffney)

Try www.landmarkflyrodtubes.com (Robert Kope)

A couple of suppliers on eBay sell tubes comparable to REC and Landmark for avg. $20 each.  (Paul Franklyn)

Ron Cilli at Landmark has great tubes at reasonable prices. Try Todd Talsma for the best rod bags made at a more than reasonable price.  (Jeff Schaeffer)

Custom Rodcrafters in Albuquerque.  (Rich Margiotta)

I need to order some rod tubes and I have a question  about sizing.

Can a 7’9” 5 wt 2/2 fit in a 1 5/8” rod tube or do I need to get a  2” rod tube?  (Greg Reeves)

It should fit, but then how heavy and big is the sock?  (Pete Van Schaack)

A 2/2 rod should fit in 1 5/8 rod tube with no problem provided the rod sack is not overly large. I have several 3/2 rods that fit in 1 5/8 tubes.  (Don Schneider)

Provided it doesn't have a huge stripper and a really thick handle. Something you usually don't find on a bamboo rod, maybe a heavy graphite for shooting lots of line or shooting heads.  (Larry Swearingen)

I put all my rods in 1 5/8 in. tubes 2 piece 2 tips and 3 piece 2 tips, like has already been said just so it doesn't have too big a handle and stripper.  (Joe Arguello)

I have a question on how some of the members on this list store their extra rods when they are not being used.  Do you store them on rod racks, tubes, etc.  (Tom Peters)

In my drying cabinet.  (Don Green)

I hang them in their bags from cup hooks in my shop.  (Steve Weiss)

EXTRA RODS?!  I don't have any extra rods! do any of you all have any extras? I need all I have.  (Timothy Troester)

I like them on a rod rack where I can see them. Reminds me that I need to go fishing more often.  (Frank Stetzer, Hexrod, Taper Archive, Rodmakers Archive)

I make a custom foam imprint of each rod section.  Prior to placing the section in the foam storing case I check the imprint with a laser level to be sure is it perfectly level and straight.

NOT!

Actually, I store mine in the rod sack with the largest ferrel down.  I hang the sack from the top in a safe area in my basement.

This assures that it will be kept dry and safe.  I learned this the hard way when I left a rod in its tube and there was some moisture in it.  After a few weeks the results were ugly.   In addition, this assures that there should not be any external forces trying to put a bend in it for you.  (David Gerich)

After fishing, I hang my rods (in the rod bags) over a line in my work room for a couple of days.  Then they go back into the tube and into the corner, dedicated to my fly fishing stuff.   they're stored vertically, more or less, until I need them again.  The tubes keep them straight.  (Terry Kirkpatrick)

I found that I could buy sections of central vacuum piping, of ABS I think, for a song. I get 2 tubes, for rods up to 8 ft, from each. I then turn a mushroom shaped cap for the top and a 3/4" pine cylinder  to fit inside the bottom. I've done that for any rod I didn't plan to sell. It all works fine except that as the seasons change, the top cap sticks, then slips out freely.  (Art Port)

You can also buy the caps for the vacuum piping as well. I glue one end and leave the other to take off and put on. The white vacuum pipe is thin wall PVC that's a lot lighter than the thicker black ABS pipe but it's still very strong for storing rods.  (Ken Paterson)

This ABS that I'm using is lighter, I'd say than schedule 20 PVC. Quite strong enough though. Maybe I didn't buy the caps because they cost as much as the 8' of tubing. I was playing it pretty close to the vest when I was buying that stuff. I DID use the heavier black ABS in 4", for my dust collection system. A friend suggested it as much quieter than using regular 4" PVC when the wood chunks bang around inside it. Seems to work as he said.  (Art Port)

I was just wondering if there is a reason for putting the butt section in the rod bag/tube with the handle up.  (Floyd Burkett)

I was always taught "butt up, tip up". It is not a good idea to stand a tip section upside down because the weakest point would be bearing the load all the way down to the tip top. I suspect this is one reason why a lot of rods that have not been touched in decades show up with sets in both tips. There could be many reasons for that. By placing the tip top up and the butt up, you are protecting the weakest part of the rod with the strongest. Or so it was told to me. (Scott Bearden)

My reasoning for putting the butt in ferrule first is that doing so allows more room at the bottom end.  In some smaller tubes, having the grip and reel seat next to the male ferrules might be a tight fit.  (Harry Boyd)

Why butt up?  Because that's the way my dad and my granddad stored their rods, so it must be right.

Otherwise, I just echo what the others have said.  (Paul Gruver)

You'll hear a lot of reasons for putting the butt up, but the truth is that the butt should go down. Think about it a minute and you'll realize that the female ferrule is the weakest part of the butt section, you really want to put that end down to it will get bounced on when the tube gets dropped or used as a walking stick or tossed to the other end of the baggage department? The only real reason for putting the butt up is because that's the way rods came back in the old days because the penny pinchers used the smallest tubes they could cram their rods into and the only way a 3 piece rod with 2 tips will fit in an 1 1'2" tube is with the handle up. It's also the only way you can make a rod bag for that rod out of an army surplus gun barrel cover. High end rods with ferrule plugs came with the plug up and tied to the loop on the bag so it wouldn't get lost. I rest my case. (John Channer)

Does anyone have a simple design or picture of a rod stand for presenting a rod for an auction? I've got a rod ready for the Hospice silent auction next Saturday night, and I'm looking for an idea on something to make that is a little more classy than a block of wood with holes drilled in it, which is what I've done in the past. The rod does have to sit upright on a table to save real estate for a lot of other items.

Most of what I find on the internet is like furniture, for multiple rods, etc.

I don't know why I can't picture what I want in my head… Must be this nasty cold I have.  (Tom Vagell)

How about something along the lines of a musical instrument stand? Google it and look at images to get an idea of what I mean.  (Jason Klett)

First thing that popped into my head was a rod holder, as commonly used when fishing from a boat.  A block of wood, a hole to fit the rod holder into.  A coat of gold spray paint on the rod holder or some such decoration. Maybe a C clamp to hold the block of wood.  (Dave Burley)