Bamboo Tips - Tips Area
Planing - Stanley

< Home < Tips Area < Planing < Stanley

Wayne Cattanach says use a Stanley 9 1/2 or clone plane and I have seen that Harry recommends them in his series. However, what's the difference between the 9 1/2 and the 9 1/4 ? Also there is a whole series of Stanley planes in the 6-7" length and 1 5/8" width, why is the 7" one better than a 6 or 6 5/8" one? Also, what's the deal with the manual adjustments on the 247 and 253 compared to the 020 and 920?  (Larry Puckett)

The key to making a plane work well for our needs as rod makers is that the front foot must be adjustable.  The front foot is that portion of the sole in front of the blade.  By loosening a screw and sliding a lever, the gap can be narrowed or widened depending on the task at hand.

I can't tell you all the differences between the model numbers you mention, but can say for sure that the 9 1/4 doesn't have the adjustable front foot.  It's okay (only okay) for roughing out, but isn't suitable for final planing, taking off only a few  hairs of bamboo per pass.  You might enjoy studying Patrick Leach's Blood and Gore Stanley tool pages on the web, but I don't have the url handy right now.  Perhaps someone will chime in with the address.  (Harry Boyd)

Thanks for the info on the planes. I found Patrick Leach's site and will look it over. At this point I am starting to get the tools together and learning more than I ever wanted to know about planes, scrapers, etc. Unfortunately winter is a bad time to look for flea market bargains so I am having to resort to eBay and they don't tell you much in their descriptions.  (Larry Puckett)

Please keep in mind that very few out of the box planes, will have the throat filed so that the blades does not sit at an angle. If the blades is tilted any at all, it's like tilting your plane while you are planing, & that will create a triangle that in an equilateral! I worked with my Stanley 9 1/2 forever, finally made it OK, then bought a Lie-Nielsen high angle plane, that I did not have to work with at all. It was just fine right out of the box. (Jerry Andrews)

I used block planes in rodmaking for years, believe me, it is a lot easier using a bench plane and clamping the strips down in the forms so you can use two hands with the bench plane. Keeping the plane level is easier, and your wrist, elbow and shoulders will thank you.  (Darryl Hayashida)

P.S. I use a 2 and 3 size bench plane.

All you really need to keep in mind is you want a high angle of attack for the pane iron edge because too low an angle slices too fine and will lift the bamboo while too high an angle reduces the slicing but increases the force needed to plane, like everything you're looking for the right compromise. If you don't have an adjustable throat you can't control the length of the chip as it passes through the mouth of the plane after it's been cut without moving the frog the plane iron sits on. Some planes don't allow frog adjustment but even when they do it's a hassle so the adjustable throat is the best. There is a direct relationship between the depth of cut and the width the throat should be set to. Too fine and the throat clogs, to wide and the chips are allowed to pass too far before they are forced up and broken forming curls which allows the chip to run too far ahead of the cutting edge causing tears no matter how sharp the iron is nor how fine you have it set.

Darryl Hayashida is correct in saying a bench plane is superior for rough planing. The job is done much faster as the iron is set at the right angle for along the grain planing (block planes are made to plane across the grain thus their plane iron low angle) and you can use both hands, as a result and as this is only rough planing you can go a lot longer before having to re sharpen the iron.

Just as an aside, I made a high angle block plane with the iron set at the same angle as a Bailey and with an adjustable throat. It works great but you need to have arms like Popeye and fingers of steel with a grip like a vise to use it even with a freshly sharpened HSS cutter.  (Tony Young)

I have a Stanley block plane.

Instead of having a quick release, it has a knurled knob similar to the one in front that opens and closes the throat. It's definitely a 9 1/2 size, but it is NOT a 9 1/2. I want another because it really locks the blade down tightly. Anyone ever seen one, and know the designation?

And yes, I checked some web sites with photos of Stanleys. It doesn't quite fit any of them. Not homemade either, the blade lock down had a Stanley decal. It sort of looks like the type of plane that might have been made for high school shops - simple and easy.  (Jeff Schaeffer)

I think its a 9 1/2 and the last model made in the USA. The only place usually marked 9 1/2 is on the blade but sometimes it will be marked 9 1/2 on the cap sticker. The sticker has 12-020 on it for a model number on most. All the knobs and the adjuster wheel are steel. The cap screw and adjuster posts have screwdriver slots. The cap itself may be aluminum or zamak, its sure not iron. The lateral adjuster just sits on the cap screw and is not threaded on like earlier models. If you go to the Stanley web site for parts its the USA made 9 1/2 they offer parts for.  (Joe Hudock)

My Stanley #9 1/2 block plane, purchased from  a local hardware in 1978 (had to be ordered), fits the description of the knurled knob configuration. The #60 1/2, purchased from the same source, at the same time, has the other style blade lock-down. When using the knob, I 'semi' tighten it while adjusting the blade, then tighten it more when the blade is set. Does require loosening the knob slightly for interim adjusting, but find that not to be a great inconvenience. Really good planes IMO.  (Vince Brannick)

You mean like this one?

If so, it's the military version of the 9 1/2.  The difficulty comes in trying to figure out of your plane was sold to the public as surplus, or "liberated."  (Paul Gruver)

Another Stanley #9 1/2 that I've seen, (purchased by Dr. Nash in Binghamton, NY in 1987) also had the knurled knob blade tightener, but the knob on this one was bright brass, not steel. What constitutes a "military version"? My plane was purchased through a normal hardware jobber.  (Vince Brannick)

It's said that antique versions of the Stanley 9 1/2 are better that the modern production. Is that just a matter of better blades, or something else besides like adjustablility?  (Mike McGuire)

The pre-WW-II blades were a bit harder and held their edge better.   The plane bodies them selves are almost identical.  (Paul Gruver)

The steel people will tell you that modern steels are better because they have better control of the alloys and the grain in the steel is more uniform.  All that said, that's their story and they should stick to it!  My experience with antique edge tools is that they just work better -- they're also harder to sharpen.  I have several Buck chisels I've picked up over the years, along with several tools I inherited from my great grandfather.  I'll take them any day over the stuff you get from Sears today.

I also feel the old plane bodies were better finished, so the new ones take a lot more tuning to make them work right.  Some of the old planes are tuned already too... (Neil Savage)

My wallet has seven or eight antique irons and 2 Hock blades for my 9 1/2s.  I have found that, properly sharpened, the antique blades are excellent!   I believe the Hock blades are better than the old irons, but maybe only by 20% based on number of sections planed per blade before needing sharpening.   (Reed Guice)

I have read that plane blades once were of laminated construction and had a thin section of "cast steel" brazed onto a softer steel that made up the bulk of the blade material. I have noticed this lamination on one or two blades where the lamination for some reason was more noticeable. Supposedly after WW II alloy steel came into use and the whole blade was then made of the same material. I don't think it was a complete switch at the time since I do have a couple Stanley block planes from the 50s/60s that I think have laminated blades. The lamination isn't visible to me but the upper part of the blade is definitely softer than the cutting edge part and can be filed to extend the slot so that more of the blade can be used up.

A 70s or so vintage Stanley that I have definitely has an alloy steel blade and filing the slot when the blade becomes worn to get more use from it is out of the question. This blade also dulled faster than the older Stanley blades when planing cane. Its not a problem now since I don't use it anymore.

I think that replacement blades for the block planes from Hock, LN and Veritas are better than the old Stanley's. My preference is for the LN blades just because they fit the Stanley block planes better. Woodcraft used to sell a laminated steel blade from Japan that worked as well as, if not better than, these blades on bamboo even though it is high carbon steel and nothing exotic like the O-1 and A-2 blades made on this side of the ocean.  (Joe Hudock)

I suspect that part of the reason that old planes seem to work better is that their owners fettled their planes, polishing the throats and the bed where the plane iron rests.  I'm sure a matter of pride, and hey, there wasn't any tv...

I'm a bit of a block plane nut; last count was over 20, and most made before I was. I use them all.   9 1/2's, 9 1/4's, knuckle planes, Stanley's Records, and a few L-N's.

Most of my old planes I had fettled by Nick Obermiere in Lompoc, the guy can turn a sow's ear into a silk purse, but I still stick PSA paper to a plane iron and polish the throat.  From Nick out of the box, I get a measured shaving under .002, after I polish and sharpen, under a thousandths on a good day.  (Leonard Baker)

I hope I'm not kicking sand in your eyes here, but a tool maker explained the change to me one time. My question was basically " Why screw up a perfectly good blade?"

He explained that when planes were newer on the scene, they were used all day long, all year long. Eventually, after power tools became popular, planes became used rarely, and stored in the tool boxes of pickups where they rusted badly. That's when they introduced more chrome into them, to stop the rust, but it ruined the high carbon ability to carry a great edge.

So I found that it not only wasn't a nefarious reason, it made sense in a really crappy way!  (Art Port)

No offense taken and i completely agree. I was assuming a replacement blade from Ron Hock, or one of the blue steel babies from Japan Woodworker or Hida tool to replace the iron of a big box store block plane. The larger chrome atoms (atomic weight 51.9961) (correct me if I'm wrong here Jerry) makes the steel "gummy" and the carbon atoms (atomic weight 12.0107, in the form of carbide) in a good plane iron like Hock allow the iron (Fe) to be sharpened to a keener edge.

Just for giggles and an educamation, find the old Scientific American that discusses the rediscovery of Damascus steel and it's cutting properties.  (Leonard Baker)

Have any of you purchased or tried the Stanley Sweetheart 9-1/2 Standard Angle Block Plane.

If so, how do you like it and how would you compare it to the Lie Nielsen block plane. (Lew Boyko)

I have one.  I use it only for roughing as the throat will not close enough for a good finish plane.  Have not tried the Lie Nielsen. (Marv Loopstra)

I second that. I love my LN. (John Smith)

Same with the Veritas IMHO.  I like the quality of both the LN and Veritas but the Veritas fit my hand better. YMMV. (Marv Loopstra)

I purchased both the Sweetheart 9 1/2 and the 60 1/2 a couple of years ago. They looked like really nice planes and the price seemed really reasonable.  However, as Mark mentioned, the throat does not close down.  Mine had a lot of backlash in the depth adjustment and the throat would not close to less than 1/8" on either plane.  That made them seem pretty useless to me.  What's the point of an adjustable throat if you can't close it to less than 1/8"?  I returned both planes without ever trying them out.

I have Veritas standard angle and low angle block planes, as well as a Lie Nielsen block plane.  I prefer the Veritas planes because the blade adjustments are the best I have encountered.  However, I still use an old Stanley 9 1/2 with a Hock blade for finishing strips.  I tuned that plane myself and it still seems to have the finest control for removing the last few thousandths. (Robert Kope)

I've bought some of the old knuckle-joint block planes (& some bench planes) from Patrick Leach at supertools.com. He sends out a tool list each month, if there's something you want you have to jump on it. The prices are reasonable, I think. I don't know if he ships to the UK.

I just like old tools.  I do use L-N irons though. (Frank Stetzer, Hexrod, Taper Archive, Rodmakers Archive)

You can spend a little or a lot on a plane.  I have an old Stanley from the 50s that was my Dad’s.  It has a good iron in it but I did recently put a new Hock blade in it.  It does work better with that blade.  Yes, I had to muck around some with the 4 Stanley's I use but they work fine.  It is not so much the tools as the person & technique.  Look at the planes Garrison & Marinaro used.  They are nothing compared to these expensive planes everyone is so enthralled with & I know that their rods are beyond compare for accuracy & quality of workmanship. (Bret Reiter)

I have done several transactions with Patrick Leach and have always been satisfied.  In one instance there was a hidden crack in one of the plane bodies which was not observable until lapped flat and he make things right with remarkable speed and no trouble at all.

No financial interest Etc.  just an observation about a reliable person. (Charley McNeill)

Over the years I've bought many planes.

• The Records 9 1/2's worked well with minor tuning.
• The Stanley's 9 1/2's and 60 1/2's acquired 35 years ago were OK with some minor tuning.
• The new Stanley got home and made a 180 turn back to where it came from.
• The Veritas Low angle I found uncomfortable so built the up the lever cap with epoxy. Further, the sole marks bad using it for final planing.
• The sole is softer than the Stanley & Record Planes. The Low Angle required no tuning.
• The Lee-Neilson #3 works OK but still doesn't solve my shoulder problems as hoped.
• The Lee-Neilson Small scraper plane had a number of problems. The casting was so poorly done that the blade would not seat straight to the sole. Took a while to file the body to allow proper blade placement. Found the blade angle adjuster worked loose constantly. That was solved by the installation of a facet washer that compressed little but grabbed well. And to top it off, the adjuster bolt broke in 1/2. I made a new one.
• The Veritas Small Scraper works fine but the blade requires specialized sharpening equipment.

Few planes don't have some issues. (Don Anderson)

Do you keep the angle that the LN comes with? It is different than my Stanley's. (Jim Miller)

I’ve found that I like to grind the iron to 35 degrees for bamboo. (Paul Julius)

I don't have the money for a Veritas (£190.00) or Lie Nielson (£160.00), I just can't justify it.

I do have a Stanley sweetheart 9 1/2 (£50.00). As others have said the throat doesn't close straight out of the box. However, it is easily fettled into shape. I took away the brass adjuster lever and after a little work with a Dremmel it now closes down well enough. Other than that it needed the standard polish of the sole etc. Works just fine now. If I could afford it I would have a plane that was ready right out of the box, but for my budget the Stanley is fine. A decent hobbiests plane. (Simon Reilly)

That's the really nice thing about the Lie-Neilsen or the Veritas plane.  Neither need fiddling with out of the box, other than sharpening the blade.  They Just Work (TM). (Mark Wendt)

I called my local Woodcraft store asking about the Stanley Sweetheart 9-1/2 plane.He did not have any on hand, he sent the last two back to Stanley as they were of poor quality.If the Sweetheart does not come perfect from Stanley, he will not sell it to a customer.

He has my name on the list of the next batch that comes in for a good one. (Lew Boyko)

If I choose to go the Stanley 9 1/2 route, I have a number of questions.

1. How can I identify the 'good' older Stanley's from the 'not so good' newer ones? Any idea what year they started making the unacceptable 9 1/2s?
2. I understand I may need to flatten the sole of the plane and, if I am using an original blade, the blade, no big deal as I do that with many of my tools I use regularly. What other fixes would I probably want to do with the Stanley 9 1/2?
3. Is there an easy way to identify the harder (and longer lasting) Stanley Model/blade?
4. Are the acceptable Stanley 9 1/2s 'standard' or 'low angle'? If either, how can I tell? (Michael Yonts)

This may help or this.

I tend to focus on Pre-1920 Stanley's which can be identified by not having Stanley cast into the toe of the plane.

As far as blades, I use Hock A1 blades.

I think the low angle is actually a 9 1/4.

Here is a guide to tuning the plane. (Tim Welhelm)

I will second the lie-nielson. Ready to go out of the box. The Stanley 9 1/4 is the same as the 9 1/2 without the adjustable throat. The 60 1/2 is the low angle. I think. (Larry Tucker)

Having just tuned the saddle on my bench lathe by the sandpaper lapping method I can tell you that when lapping the sole do not use any fluids, just get one of those belt cleaners at sears or $5 and use it often.  You will use a lot less paper, be a whole lot less messy and will get the job done a lot faster. (Ralph Tuttle)

This may give you some ideas on further tuning a 9 1/2, but if you are sure you will persevere at rodmaking, I would suggest just buying the Lie Nielson or veritas and be done with it. (Tom Smithwick)

Tom is right. Forget the Stanley. Save your money and get a LN with a rodmakers groove. I started with a Stanley and it took me a full two-day period of time to flatten the sole on a diamond stone. I love my LNs. (Alex Vardanis)

I appreciate all the advice. I think I will go with the LN 9 1/2. I don't mind scraping and scrounging on the other stuff, but when all is said, it is nice to have somethings that are top shelf... (Michael Yonts)

You won't regret it.  The service from the folks at L-N is second to none.   Not just saying that because I live in Maine :) You may want to ask them to put a 35 deg bevel on the blade. (David Van Burgel

Whenever I see comments about Lie‑Nielsen, I have to put in my two cents worth.  Before I retired and got sick, I ordered a scraper plane from L-N.  I asked them to put a 10 mil groove in the sole of the scraper.  Unknown to me the depth most commonly asked for at that time was 5 mils instead of 10.  Since I wanted the 10 mil I contacted them and they were very courteous and said they would send another.  It arrived shortly but in performing the routing for the groove something slipped and the groove was 5 mils on one end and 10 on the other.  This time when they shipped me the scraper it was perfect.  Not only that I received an extra blade free of charge, (a $20 value at that time and a book on planes) and Lie Neilsen himself called me personally to apologize for the screw-up.  Mistakes will happen but you know you are dealing with a good company when the president calls you personally to apologize. (Onis Cogburn)