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I know that a number of you turn reel seats on a metalworking lathe. I recently bought a LMS 7x12 and was thinking about doing the same. However, I am concerned that the wood chips and sawdust created will gum up the ways, crossfeed, compound rest, gears, etc. especially when mixed with the oil on all those surfaces. Is this a problem? Does the lathe have to be disassembled to be cleaned?  (JW Healy)

I always drape a rag or paper towel over as much of the works of the lathe as I can.  When I'm finished I lift the four corners of the towel or rag and throw it away.  Then the lathe is cleaned with a brush and a vacuum, then re-oiled.  Be careful of using compressed air because it can blow stuff into areas that are really hard to reach.  Once a year dis-assemble the cross-slide, etc and clean well with kerosene, then re-oil and re-assemble.I wish I had a nice dust collection system with some sort of attachment that would immediately remove wood chips and dust, but for now this process seems to work for me.  I suppose I could set something up with the Shop-Vac, but I hate listening to that thing run.Unless you really get into turning wood you aren't likely to destroy the lathe or its accuracy.  Now if you were turning 10-20 pens a month that might be a different story. (Harry Boyd)

I have not had a problem from the wood chips flying all over my metal lathe, but started recently fastening my shop vac pickup on the tool holder.  My high-tech method of fastening?  Large rubber bands.  Somehow it seemed smarter to suck all the stuff up while it was being cut off instead of waiting until after making all of the mess. (Tim Anderson)

I think it is important to cover the ways and carriage so all those wood chips and dust do not come into contact with those surfaces.  Generally, I don't think the wood would harm the metal, but even lathes with way wipers (felt pads keep most metal chips from getting into the sliding surfaces) I think should be covered.  Cloth can be used, but I use 1/32" thick rubber sheeting.  You can see it pretty well in the photo here. I use this rubber sheeting for all work on the lathe.  (Rick Kruger)

I have used a little Taig for years for reel seats and pens, have not tried the new wood lathe yet.  Yes, the chips and sawdust does gum things up, especially under the cross-slide.  I take it apart every coupl eof months and clean it up (easy chore on such a simple lathe). (Carey Mitchell)

I ran into something tonight while trying to change the belt on my Delta midi lathe. The pulley has a torx set screw. The T15 is too small and the T20 is too big. Do any of you know what I am looking at? There isn't a size between 15 and 20. The belt has never been changed before. (Timothy Troester)

My guess is that there may be another, perhaps better, way to change the belt than removing the pulley.  Often where there are odd sizes or styles of fasteners those things are not meant to be removed. (Harry Boyd)

Are you sure the set screw in question is not a spline type, as opposed to a Torx?  (Chuck Pickering)

I don't know which midi he has but I can check a neighbors LA200.   Just checked a schematic for a LA200 and a 46-250 and the Spindle Pulley takes a M-6x10mm Socket Set Screw. (Ron Hossack)

I have an LA200 as well. So far I have tried several sets of allens, both standard and metric and several torx sets. All the other set screws on the unit take a T15. I also now know a 5/32 #3 ease-out is too small. I just need to get it out. I am going to try to cover a torx 15 with foil and try wedging it in. Not sure what to do at this point. Any suggestions or magic incantations you can conjer up I will try. (Timothy Troester)

I had tried the easy out without success and was sitting here feeling blue, the end of all good things and all, and suddenly recalled the little trick I used years ago. Using a #3 5/32 easy out. I tapped it in then as I applied pressure with the vise grips on the square end of the easy out, I kept tapping the easy out as it turned. The setscrew came right out and dropped in my hand. The setscrew was now permanently melded with my neighbor’s easy out. First I tried to pull it off. Then...well that's another story. Thank you all for good advice and moral support. (Timothy Troester)

It is the little successes that make it all worthwhile, especially when you do something like this and the lathe is still usable when you are done!

I had made a reel a few years ago and needed to fix something on it. Problem is I used locktite to permanently set the screws. It is made of sheet metal and getting it apart may destroy it. Decisions...

May be easier to make a new one.

That philosophy does not work with lathes.  (Gordon Koppin)

Which color of Loctite?   I'm guessing red. 

I don't know if this will help but I needed to get some set screws loose that had Red Loctite. I used a pencil soldering iron and placed the tip in the hole and let it heat up. I was able to break the bond and get the screws out.

Hope someone comes up with an easy solution for you.  (Ron Hossack)