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I'm in the process of building an Al Medved/Adam Vigil type beveler.  I've got the cabinet finished and will mount the router in it tonight, then make up a couple of 60 degree trays.  I've got a question about how the tray gets fixed to the face plate of the beveler. 

Of the drawings and pictures I've seen, there seems to be two different configurations.  In the first, there is only one lock down knob which is on the bolt that the tray pivots on.  The other end of the tray, where the adjusting screws would be, looks to be held in to the front of the beveler by the spring that provides the upward tension to the tray.  The other configuration adds a second lock down bolt/knob that travels in an arc shaped slot cut in the face plate of the beveler.  This second lock down is on the end opposite the pivot bolt.

Being naturally lazy, and wishing to keep things simple, I like the single lock down bolt/knob on the pivot better.  I think that since my beveler is made entirely out of wood (oak, maple, and Baltic birch multiply plywood) the single lock down should provide enough friction to keep the tray from moving.  I'd be grateful if those of you out there that have made one of these would let me know what you think.  Anybody got a Medved style beveler with the tray lock down on the pivot end only?   If so,   how does it work?  (Bill Benham)

I made mine that way, with only the one bolt holding the end.  I've only run one set of strips through it so far, but they came out just fine.  Didn't notice any play in the tray moving away from the face of the beveler.  My tray is made from 1 1/2" by 1 1/2" inch oak, so it is pretty sturdy.  (Mark Wendt)

Mine has a single pivot point, which is simply a bolt that sticks through the beveler face and the tray. I do have a fancy plastic knob on it, but a  wing nut would be fine. If you go this route, attach the spring to the side of the beveler so that spring tension pulls the tray both up and in. The "other" configuration may have been a more  sophisticated way of keeping the tray from moving laterally. A single pivot point works fine, at least mine does.

Remember to make a safety plate, wear eye and hearing protection, and go very slow at first. If you don't, you will end up posting a message entitled "Medved beveler, big trouble". I'll bet my original post is still in the archives.  (Jeff Schaeffer)

The slot in the face plate with either a screw or bolt attached to the tray will insure that the tray will stay put on that end.  If done correctly the slot can act as a upward "stop" for the tray to prevent it from accidentally being moved into the cutter.  (Adam Vigil)

I have made the Medved beveler and only use one lock down bolt that the tray pivots on and it works very well.  I agree with you that the second bolt is not needed.  (Tom Peters)

It's true, you certainly don't need a second tightening knob.  But I think the design would be greatly improved if one were to arrange for a simple pivot at the right end of the bed, with the spring and tightening knob being located at the other (left hand) end.  The mechanical advantage of locating that knob away from the pivot point is important, as in operation, the beveler creates quite a bit of vibration and chattering.  The spring needs to be strong, and the knob needs to produce some heavy friction to keep the bed adjusted to each setting.  (Bill Harms)

Thanks to all who responded to my post re: Medved beveler tray attachment.  Seemed that the majority only have the single lock down knob on the pivot, although several folks made very valid cases for the second lock down.  I decided to go with the single lock down on the pivot.  I did use a fairly heavy spring for the one that adds the upward tension on the other end of the tray, and angled it back to provide some inward force.  For good measure I added a second spring from the tray to the back of the beveler cabinet.  Seems pretty secure.  Only thing left to do is put together some wheeled hold downs ALA Adam Vigil.  (Bill Benham)

I used the wheel hold downs on mine and like the way they work.  I first saw the wheel hold down's on Joe Byrd's JW beveler, and when we ran some strips through it, I liked the way they worked.  The only thing to watch out for when using the wheels, is to ensure there is very little side play at the mounting point of the hold down.  If there is too much side play, sometimes the wheel can walk itself up the side of the groove, and result in a not so nice snipe of the cane section, since it's not being held as securely as it should.  Don't ask how I know...  ;^}  (Mark Wendt)

Can anyone who's made or is using a Medved beveler tell me, does the spring that's hooked to the tray hold the tray up, or does the adjusting screw thread through the tray and hold it?  I figure the spring lets the tray float downward, but that would mean the adjusting screw is just a stop.  Why have two stops?  The plans I've downloaded didn't indicate exactly how to rig this up, and digging around in the archives didn't offer an answer.  Y’all are a lot easier than trail and error.  (Bill Freiman)

The spring pulls the beveler bed up against the screw. There are often two screws- the first allows you to adjust bed height- as you "back" the screw the beveler bed is pulled up toward the blade by the spring. The second screw is set as a stop to help insure that your strips are all the same size, and to keep you from going too far.  (Jeff Schaeffer)