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In the past we've had some discussions on the use of standard Vs. truncated Vs. step-down ferrules. I just noticed that in the RodDNA database ALL rods are listed as having standard ferrules! Is this an error or did the creator just enter standard because he didn't know? Or did someone actually go through and adjust all the tapers for standard ferrules? Given the fact that many of our most experienced makers seemed to feel that having the correct type ferrule that the rod taper was designed for is important, it would seem to be a good idea to know just what we're dealing with when using these tapers.  (Larry Puckett)

I won't venture to guess what rods were produced with truncated ferrules, and I certainly can't speak to the database entries. That said, In most cases, unless the person who originally posted a taper included a note specifying the ferrule, you are not going to be aware of the ferrule type. The only factor that Hexrod uses for the ferrule is weight, there is no factor for ferrule type. If you know a rod was made with a truncated ferrule, or if you choose to use a truncated ferrule, it is easy enough to make the change in your model file. The recent discussion concerning step-downs Vs standard ferrules was really centered around the change in taper to accommodate a given ferrule, not the actual ferrule design or weight. The weight differences are certainly not insignificant, but they do not enter into the math until the ferrule location, where the blank is beginning to get larger, which minimizes the effect of the added weight. The effect on the flex or feel takes a Ouija board, I don't think I have ever seen it quantified.

Disclaimer: I am not favoring one specific ferrule design over another, nor am I recommending a specific brand of grits! (Larry Blan)

Mostly all of the models that exist in the RodDNA database did not have the type of ferrule indicated, so the default was set to standard.

I have tried to get actual ferrule weights and dimensions from some manufactures without any luck.  I would like to use the actual ferrule weights for stress calculations and the dimensions for section cutting calculations so if any  of you have  complete sets  of  ferrules please e-mail me off list.

Also, if anyone would be interested in going through the database and indicating the type of ferrule please let me know.  Most of the RodDNA pull-down lists can be configured via the program options.  (Larry Tusoni)

Thanks for that update. I assume then that these tapers came from one of the online archives and therefore are based on the actual measurements. If so can anyone describe how to examine the measurements across the ferrule stations and at least guess at whether a standard or step down ferrule is best? Also how abbot a list of which makers used which?  (Larry Puckett)

Thanks for that update. I assume then that these tapers came from one of the online archives and therefore are based on the actual measurements.

Yes, the majority of them did, others I entered from my notes, other sources, books, and some were submitted by contemporary makers.  A few makers helped correct obvious errors like Chris Bogart, Jim Lowe and myself. 

If so can anyone describe how to examine the measurements across the ferrule stations and at least guess at whether a standard or step down ferrule is best? Also how abbot a list of which makers used which?

This would be interesting information, especially the makers preferences for standard, sd, truncated or sd truncated, and also bluing etc.  (Larry Tusoni)

I am looking to turn my own ferrules. This will be my first time. I am looking for a source  for the dimensions for the Super Z or Super Swiss ferrules. Dimensions like the length, OD, ID, wall thickness etc. any and all help would be greatly appreciated.  (Denny Dennis)

Here's a link to the Super-Z specs on Chris Bogart's site.  (David Bolin)

I have a friend who has been at me for a couple of years to build him a 4-piece rod.  So insistent that I gave him my Phillipson Smuggler, but even that didn't stop him.

So I am going to take a leaf out of Phillipson's book, and am in the process of turning up some aluminum ferrules for getting around the weight problem.

Haven't yet decided whether to make them normal length or truncated.  What do you blokes reckon?  Is aluminum strong enough to do the job truncated?  (Peter McKean)

Use carbon fiber cloth to make ferrules.  I do. Your ferrules will weigh in around 40% of what NS ferrules do. Google "building the universal ferrule" by Ted Barnhart, it's a clear tutorial (though of course I had to tweak the method slightly for my own ease), and also lists suppliers of the needed materials (though they are all in the US, and I don't know if you can ship everything overseas, of if you can find local in country suppliers.  The only thing that might be difficult to ship might be the epoxy resin). Cost for all materials was under $200, and you can get several dozen ferrules out of this. I'm using dimensions from step-downs for slide length for the multi-piece rods/odd size ferrules. Carbon fiber ferrules don't slip, won't seize up, can be "refitted" with a little varnish (rather than replacing the ferrule), don't require removing cane for the ferrule, and BEND WITH THE ROD.  (Chris Obuchowski)

Working on a 3 pc - 6'6" 3 wt. rod and am wondering what ferrule type to use. 

The friend is an architect who tends to like form over function. Most of his rods have step down ferrules which look OK but might not wear as well as Super Zeds. 

Here is the problem: 

Flat to Flat of the cane @ the ferrule is 0.134". I wonder if the diameter of the male ferrule would be so small that early wear could happen. Further, as the rod is a short 3 pc. rod, would it be suitable to use truncated ferrules. 

Frankly - I'm a Super Z guy and believe the truncated ferrules and tiny metal slides lead to premature wear. For that reason, I may take the "heat" from the friend for not using step downs. 

Of course, the alternate might be truncated Super Z's. 

I realize that step downs have been used for years. That doesn't make it the best choice - it could be just tradition. 

What should I do? (Don Anderson)

You are talking about a short, light weight rod so, if it were me, I would use step-downs. They're lighter and slimmer than Swiss style. Step-downs can be made with the cane hole under the male barrel and tab the same ID as the female cane hole if you wish; the step down to the male slide would be a bit bigger but only 1/64". I believe Tony Young makes these and also makes truncated step-downs and I imagine Tony Larson could do it too if you asked. (JW Healy)