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I have been experimenting with using a paste epoxy (Rod Bond) to glue up strips. My first test consisted of using the epoxy to glue some non-tapered 60 degree scrap strips. After a 24 hour cure, I started to do some destructive testing. I first placed one end of the section in my bench vise and grabbed the other end with a pair of vise grips. I was amazed that I could twist the short 10" section about 90 degrees with no failure. I then bent the section back an forth about 25 degrees each way and again no failure. My last test was to heat the section as if I was doing some final straightening and as suspected the strips came apart. It took a bit of heat, more than a rod would normally be subjected too in standard conditions (outside of straightening). I wonder if I glued the sections with the paste epoxy and ensured that they were straight before final curing, would my bond last.

I am looking for a way to impart a stiffer feel to a rod. I am trying to make a smaller diameter rod with a nice quick action. I have tried many glues,  but have  not found  exactly what I'm looking for. (Jeff Fultz)

Do you think that Resorcinol results in a stiffer action? (Steve Weiss)

Yes I do think Resorcinol makes a stiffer action rod, but for blonde rods, I do not like the purple lines. I have used URAC and I think it also provides a stiffer feel but the short shelf life and the need to carefully measure steers me to look for something simpler. I don't mind the exact measuring myself, but when I need one of my employees to mix up some adhesive, I'd rather have something very simple and easy. (Jeff Fultz)

Does anyone out there use Rod Bond U-40 for gluing tip tops? 

I haven't yet, but it seems like it should work.  Just wanted to see if anyone else has had problems with it before I commit a horrible mistake, and I don't see any reference to U-40 for tops in the archives.   (Matt Schoenleben)

I wouldn't use anything like an epoxy for tip tops you can use ferrule tite (used to glue tips on arrows) or simply use a hot glue gun stick. Just heat the end of the glue stick up with a lighter and smear some on the tip of the cane then when ready heat it up again and slip on the tip top. If it's not lined up just right when you put on all the guides, you can simply heat it up and turn it. I have been doing it this way for years. Hope this helps. (Joe Arguello)

I concur with Joe.  It's always nice to be able to make fine adjustments after all the guides are wrapped, and I've never had a tip top come loose.  (50+ cane, graphite and glass rods). (Tom Key)

I use U-40 Rod Bond for gluing on all my hardware, tip-tops included.  Never had a problem with it.  M-D turned me on to the stuff years ago. (Mark Wendt)

I, too, use the Bohning Ferrule Tite.  It’s very easy to use & if you need to re-position the tip top, all you need is a little heat from the heat gun to free it.  Good stuff!! (Paul Julius)