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< Home < Tips Area < Finishing < Varnish < Coverage Issues
This has probably been discussed many times in the past, however, here goes. What causes the varnish (MOW) to seem to pull away, at some places, from the edges of a dipped rod? I dipped this particular rod three times with no difficulty and on the fourth and final dip I ended up with this condition. I haven't been near any silicone, the varnish seems to be thin enough and the rate of rod extraction from the varnish is about 3" per minute? All input will be appreciated. Thanks in advance. (Jack Follweiler) Must be either the weather there, or you've thinned it too much. I've dipped dozens of rods in MOW and I find that it pulls out to the corners, rather than leaving them bare. I wound up with little troughs in the middle of the flats. But, I live in Durango, CO,., where a humid day is 40%, and I only slightly thinned it, mostly by accident floating a teaspoon of thinner on top of the varnish in the tube between uses. (John Channer) I've seen this due to contamination from my hands but also from other reasons. Did you sand between coats, or apply the subsequent coat within the prescribed time for recoating? If you sanded, did you clean extremely well before applying the subsequent coat? If you didn't sand, did you wait too long before applying the subsequent coat? (Martin-Darrell) I really think it could be the humidity. I have had to redo many wraps this summer because my MOW did not like the high humidity and heat. I have gone to using one 50/50 coat and the using PU for the rest of the coats. Works better. For blanks, I have been using the poly as well. It is working better for me than the spar does this summer. (Bob Maulucci) What do "boat people" do then? I don't mean to shoot holes in your theory, but it gets mighty humid down on the water, not to mention hot. I've done a bit of varnishing on some charter fishing boats that I worked on a while back and had no problems with MOW. Do you think it might be the small surface area and hard turns of a six-sider that might have something to do with it? Surface tension might also play a role here, no? Liquids (especially bipolar ones like water, don't know about varnish) like to form spheres when they can, thus the rounded edges, etc., when dipping. Perhaps thinning the varnish might be the answer. (???) Dunno... All are possibilities I guess. Just my $0.02, for what it's worth...(Dennis Haftel) Your case makes very good sense to me, but I have thinned it well and have never had a problem in the dry winter months. And I am talking about big quad flats .320 in width. The varnish gets gooey after one coat whether sanded after 1 hour or 10 days. Wish I knew. Maybe I will try doing wraps at the marina? (Bob Maulucci)
What do you do about varnish that creeps away from the corners? Is it make dependent or some other factor? (Steve Dugmore) I mix Penetrol into the varnish, between 10 - 15%. (Mark Wendt) Penetrol certainly seems to help; I use a bit less than Mark, but still seems to do the job. And I don't thin my varnish, don't add anything other than the bit of Penetrol. (Peter McKean) Does anyone know of a Penetrol type product that can be used water based PU to reduce or avoid the "creeping varnish" problem? The Penetrol web site implies that it is for oiled products only. (Jim Healy) I am certainly not qualified to comment on rodmaking or finishing -- still trying to finish my first rod . I have had experience with Floetrol (Penetrol's latex paint counterpart) by Flood. I use it to condition latex paint when I am spray painting furniture or cabinets. I have mixed it in fairly high percentages (25-30%) in order to spray the latex paint using HVLP conversion guns and regular automotive spray equipment with good results. The finish starts out looking like spit pudding with fairly large droplet size, but flattens nicely and has proven quite durable. I know you are not trying to spray the water based PU, but Floetrol might be worth a try. (John Roboski)
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