How does a person remove the interior nodal dams from a full bamboo culm (or a 4' section)? I suppose the other challenge would be to make a tight fit with the cork cap. (Michael Ryno)
I think I would try to sharpen an edge on one end of a piece of thin wall electrical conduit. Then drive the conduit through the 4' piece of bamboo using a block of wood and a mallet. Thin wall conduit (EMT) comes in various sizes and I would probably use 1 1/2" or 2" depending on the size of the bamboo. I might even reinforce the bamboo by gluing a piece of PVC inside the bamboo. I could then glue a decorative cap on a PVC plug of some sort if I tried this. (Dick Fuhrman)
Knock it out with a section of pipe, glue some sandpaper to the pipe to smooth out the interior. (George Bourke)
Getting the dams out is all well and good but wouldn't you think the bamboo culm, in time, would split just like they do when I store them in my rafters? (Jack Follweiler)
The culms were wrapped with thread to reinforce them, then varnished. This should keep them from splitting. (Dick Fuhrman)
Yeah, and I bet he uses Pearsalls Gossamer in white so that it will go clear. No wonder they cost $300.00. (Can you imagine wrapping a culm in Gossamer?!) (Martin-Darrell)
I have found it is easier, and cheaper, to use large locally grown bamboo which as the diameter but not the thickness of rodmakers cane. (Ian Kearney)
Where in the heck can I find 1/4" thick hardwood, like cherry or walnut, 1 1/2 - 2" wide, 4 to 6' long? I have scoured all over the place here in the DC metro area, and all the hardwood places start at 4/4's and go up, and want to charge an arm and a leg to mill it down to 1/4" thick... Not having a planer makes much work in getting the stock size I need. (Mark Wendt)
I buy strips at Home Depot or Menards. (Rich Jezioro)
I was over at Home Depot and Lowes the other day, and they only had 1/4" stock available in poplar, pine, and oak, and only 24" long. Menards doesn't exist outside of the upper midwest, so I'm kinda out of luck there. Any other suggestions guys? (Mark Wendt)
I've ordered hardwood from Bristol Valley Hardwood and been happy with what I've received. I know that they have thin material but I'm not sure about minimum quantity requirements. (Pat Higgins)
Thanks. That's a good site, they have a lot of different kinds of wood. I'll contact them to see what minimums they have to ship. (Mark Wendt)
Try this: Eisenbran (Mike Shay)
If you got the tools, then you want lumber that thick.
I take 4/4 or 5/4 and cut a piece on the table saw to the width of one of the sides of the case. Then I go to the band saw and resaw those into 1/4" + strips. From there, they go through the planer to get them to the thickness I want. (1/4"-) Lastly onto the router table to chamfer the edges.
After showing my first case to a friend, they asked how much it cost. My response was "$1,200, I had to buy a table saw, a router and $12 worth of wood!" (Tim Wilhelm)
I have made about a half dozen by ripping a 3/4 board into 2" widths, then resawing on the table saw into 1/4 or 3/16" thickness. Just make sure you have featherboards and holddowns set up before the resawing begins as it can get scary. The last couple were done after I got a planer so there was a lot less sanding. Have done this with cherry, walnut, maple and lacewood (a real eye-catcher) One has alternated walnut and maple strips. Some of the woodworking supply catalogues may have 1/4 stuff long enough. (Carey Mitchell)
There are two ways to easily get 1/4" hardwood stock. the first is that you buy 4/4 stock and have it milled to 1/4 inch. The mill charge will not be too much, but you are paying for some rather expensive chips. The second approach is to buy 4/4 stock and resaw it on a bandsaw to thinner pieces. These pieces must then milled on first a joiner/planner to get one side flat and then on a thickness planner to get to the 1/4 inch dimension. Resawing means that you stand the board on end through the bandsaw and saw it into thinner "sheets." You only lose the kerf thickness of the saw blade plus the cleanup stock. 4/4 stock will usually clean up to 13/16ths. You can easily get two 1/4 pieces of finished stock out of a 4/4 piece. You can probably get three 1/4 inch pieces out of a 5/4 rough stock. These are fairly standard woodworking approaches. If you don't have the equipment, you can probably find a woodworking friend to help. (John Sabina)
Here's my boy! You won't find the selection he has that he is willing to mill to 1/4". Tell him Eamon the chef from Syracuse sent ya! (Eamon Lee)
I was wondering which clear label sticks to aluminum the best (for rod tube logos). I would like to avoid the cost of getting printed stickers for logo, since I am not a production rod builder and would probably never use up the minimum amount you would need to order to make it a reasonable expense. By printing up a logo and then using a clear film to go on top of it (to protect the logo and to stick it to the tube) may be my ticket. (Robert Cristant)
I have used decal labels I print off on a color laser printer. The cost is about $1 a sheet and I have about 50 labels on each sheet. (Scott Grady)
I'm curious about this myself. I make decals with a Alps printer and I made some clear decals and then sprayed with Clear Kote and I still think it needs more protection because it does scratch very easily. (Dave Henney)
I put the decals on between coats 1 and 2 of varnish. Usually put 3 total and have not had any problems with it coming off. (Scott Grady)
For those of you who build hex wood rod cases ..where are you getting your leather straps 'n buckles?? (Dennis Higham)
I make a few leather reel boxes. Get the leather, buckles, linen thread, etc. from a local Tandy Leather crafts store. (Ted Knott)
I am purchasing my leather and buckles from Tandy. I use the 3/4 inch leather and purchase it in 8 foot lengths. The buckle I purchase is called a Bridle buckle. It has a brass appearance and looks classy. I also purchased some dark brown leather dye and on some of my lighter cases (IE: maple) dye the leather a dark brown to give the case some contrast.
I originally wanted to put snaps on, but could not find any snaps big enough to go through the 1/4 inch thickness of the wood and the leather too.
Tandy Leather will get you to their online catalog. (Joe Byrd)
I have been using the leather dog collars in the 16 inch variety for my cases. They are really nice and cheap with the buckles attached. All you do is cut them below the buckle area and screw that part to the front of the case and take the rest and attach it from the back over the top. This idea came form George Barnes. (Gordon Koppin)
Would appreciate any suggestions anyone may have for a rugged but light rod tube - 3 piece fits in about 28” long x 2” diameter tube - to be used while backpacking during an upcoming AT section hike with some Shenandoah free stone mountain fishing along the way. Have tried PVC but that was too heavy - florescent light bulb tubes were too flimsy and collapse when climbing over a blowdown. (Dave Endicott)
Why not try the lighter PVC used for electrical conduits. I think it is schedule 20. (Timothy Troester)
I use two different solutions. The first is just to use an aluminum rod tube. They are very light and will protect the rod. The second is a PVC tube covered in nylon with a pouch for the reel. The ones I use are made my Wave Products in Salt Lake. This is a bit heavier than the aluminum case but you can carry the reel attached to the butt section and a fly box or two. In fact if you get in a real hurry you can leave the rod strung up and just take it apart at the ferrule and quickly put it together at the next stream crossing. (Mark Cole)
I think I have them all beat. Go to an electrical store and ask for the tubing (I think it's ABS) that's used for whole-house vacuum systems. It's pretty strong and lots lighter than anything that's been mentioned so far. An 8 footer that's about 2" in diameter. Runs about $8 if I recall, not much more than PVC, I think. (Art Port)
Have a look at www.usplastics.com. The sell tubes made out of Tenite. I believe they have fitted caps for the tubing as well. Tenite used to be used to make transparent fly boxes. The old green bottom Cortland boxes were made out of this stuff. It's much stiffer and more rugged than the fluorescent light tubes, but would be much lighter than PVC. I've considered it for inexpensive rod tubes. (Bill Benham)
In addition to the PVC vacuum tube (for house walls), which I got a sections of, but it was still too heavy. (Dave Endicott)
A few weeks ago there was some discussion on the list about types of and sources for rod tubes. For me anyway, a real nice alternative to metal tubes is hex tubes built out of hardwood. Usually the price for material is between $12.00 and $20.00 dollars and when you are done you have a striking accessory for your high end rods.
The tools I use are common to a rod maker except for a jig to cut the walls which is cheap and easy to assemble. I found that by using most normal means to cut the miters left me with too much room for error, so I devised a jig which will hold the strips with no movement as they are passed thru the saw.
To make the jig you take a 1 x 8 x 6 ft. long No. 1 grade pine board and dress one side on a jointer. The miter slots on my table saw are 3/4 in wide , so I attached a piece of aluminum flat 3/4 w x 3/16 thick on the bottom of the board on the dressed edge. I set the flat stock with one of those long straight edges they use for routers all along the edge on the bottom. Next I tilted my saw blade to the left 30 degrees and ran the board through which cut a perfectly straight beveled edge on the board. Now you measure back from the edge of the cut 1 inch and using the long router straight edge you install a fence the full length. Now you need 5 small vertical toggle clamps and you screw these to the jig from behind the fence and your in business.
I usually buy walnut boards 3/4 x 6 x 5 ft. I cut three pieces long enough to give me an extra couple inches in length. Then I take the pieces and slit them in half on my bandsaw. I now have 6 pieces about 3/8 x 2 by desired length. I pass the cut side thru my planer until until the sides are smooth and about 1/4 in thick. Now to bevel them you just put a piece in your jig against the fence and lock it in place with the toggle clamps and send it thru your table saw w/ the blade set left 30 degrees, do the other side and finish all 6 this way. I use a Freud finish cut blade for this. Assemble like a fish pole. Place all six pieces face up and put strips of masking tape on them sort of making a blind then flip it over and glue the seams. Now roll it up and secure it with lg radiator clamps being careful not to damage the joints.
With the tube curing, I make the caps by drawing a hex on the board a bit bigger then I need and I cut them both out on my band saw. I use Titebond on these so now I let it sit for about 4 hours. By now the glue has set up and you can remove the clamps and cut each end to the final size. I put a 1/4 in straight bit in my router ( in a table) and start cutting the shoulders by passing all six sides into the bit until I get a nice snug fit. Now glue the bottom cap in place.
Let sit overnight. Next day, I put the top cap in place and sand the whole thing with a belt sander smoothing the sides and flushing the sides of the caps to the walls.
I use a leather boot lace to secure the top cap. There are numerous ways of doing this but the leather is my favorite. What I do is on my drill press I bore a hole thru the tube and cap with the edge of the bit just touching the seam between the tube and cap . this gives me slots at the top of the tube and gives me a hole thru the portion of the cap that slides inside the tube. Now I go down the tube 2 1/2 in and again bore thru the tube. Put a knot in the leather and pass it thru the lower hole from the inside pulling the knot tight against the wall now pass the piece thru the hole in the cap and leave. take another piece of lace and knot it. Pass it thru the lower hole as the first. Tie a small loop in this end and trim. Pull the 1st ps thru the loop to gage the length and knot this end/ trim to secure you just push the knot thru the loop and catch it.
I will usually finish with a few coats of Birchwood Casey gunstock oil and buff. As I have said this will give you a real eye catching tube. A friend said to me, Gee Bill, now I need a tube to put the tube in. Know what? He was probably right. (Billy Carter)
I'm making my first hexagon rod case for my first rod while the spar cures. I'm using red oak and Titebond II. When I glued it up, I wrapped it in black electrical tape. I let the glue cure for about 24 hours and removed the tape. There are a few areas that have what looks like mold that formed in the grain under the tape. It looks like I'm going to have to completely sand away all the rough grain to get rid of it. Not that it's all that rough. The strips were finished in a thickness planer and sanded smooth before gluing. But it's going to take a lot of sanding to eliminate some of the deep grain in that red oak. I would run it back through the thickness planer but I'm afraid it would delaminate. That doesn't seem like a very safe option.
What is that black stuff and is there an easier way to get rid of it? (David Bolin)
The black stuff may just be residue from the tape encased in the glue. Might be easier to just use a scraper to get it off. (Mark Wendt)
Definitely not mold, cannot grow in 24 hours. I have been successful (once) in running one through a thickness planer when the alcohol-based stain turned out miserably and was too deep to sand. Just set the planer to take off the thinnest amount possible, keeping in mind that the case may not be perfectly symmetrical. Mine came out fine; the only problem is that I have used a hinged cap which could not go through the planer (made the case with both ends capped and sawed one off) had to take it down on the belt sander - very slowly. (Patrick Coffey)
You might try some of the bleaching solutions that wood refinishers use to remove stains. (Larry Puckett)
If using wood bleach wear rubber gloves use great care. Most wood bleaches contain a very strong peroxide. It can cause chemical burns to exposed flesh. (No need to ask how I know is there?) If you get some on your hands, milk works to neutralize the burning, water does not. (Rich Jezioro)
It sounds to me that the black stuff you found under the black tape was most likely black sticky stuff off the sticky side of the black tape. to remove it, I would try using alcohol and steel wool and rub with the grain. (Timothy Troester)
I find if red oak gets wet with water it will leave a black stain. This also happens with some glues I have used. I found that it is almost impossible to remove the stain if it is real deep. You might try some bleach on the stain, sometimes it has worked for me.
When I glue up oak, I make it a point to clean up the glue while it is still wet. (Tony Spezio)
I think you nailed it Tony. I thought I remembered seeing those black stains deep in wood grain before. Maybe that had something to do with growing up working at my Dad's lumber yard. I wiped the case down with a wet rag after the tape was applied and before the glue dried. I got it pretty wet. I wiped the case down with denatured alcohol to remove the tape residue before getting frustrated and posting the question. I tried 409 (great for black streaks on a camper) and a mixture of water and bleach. It didn't budge. I'll keep sanding. (David Bolin)
Wetting it down is what did it I am pretty sure. I suspect the wood was damp under the tape. I recently built an oak vanity for my bathroom. I picked up the red oak on a rainy day. Moving the oak to the shop, it got wet in places. Those places turned black in a few days. I was able to work around them and did not have to discard the wood. (Tony Spezio)
You might try Oxalic Acid. I think, but won't bet the farm, that products such as "Oxyclean" contain Oxalic Acid. (Grayson Davis)
Oxalic acid will bleach oak. Oxyclean and its copies contain sodium carbonate and/or percarbonate. Might do the job. They are capable of damaging several other items I have been involved with. (Carey Mitchell)
Try 4/0 steel wool saturated with tape remover. You should be able to find the tape remover in a drug store. Sounds like adhesive residue. (Greg Kuntz)
Sounds like it's residue from the electrical tape. Try cleaning it with lacquer thinner. I doubt mold would form in 24 hours. (Marty DeSapio)
Next time use clear packing tape. Run the tape the length of the miter. Do this for every joint. Oh yeah, put the tape on the outside of the miter. This way and you can see where you have to hit a joint with the plane if need be. Once you are happy burnish the tape a bit, flip the sections over. Apply glue to each side of the joint. Roll up your tube. Your done, you need only worry about squeeze out on the last joint. Pull packing tape across that one. Glue very rarely creeps out of the taped joints if they are good.
As for the black stain I think it is water that did it, it usually goes deep. Stain that bad boy a dark color, or cut a saw kerf in the edge of the miter and add a nice spline in an other color. Maybe some bamboo. (Daniel Durocher)
Problem solved. Just ran the case through the thickness planer a few times and took off about 1/32". No more black stuff in the grain. On to the end caps. Ron Barch demoed case making at SRG 2003. But I've slept since then. Guess I'll make it up as I go. (David Bolin)
I've had some 7 mm she-oak boards lying around for a couple of years now and have decided it's about time I did something useful with them; like make a nice hex rod case. Any suggestions concerning outside or inside width of each side would be very much appreciated. (Mike Roberts)
Example: 1/4" strip thickness, 2" inside dimension rod case. To figure out the finished width of the strips:
(1/4 + 2 + 1/4) x .577 = 1.400" (Don Schneider)
I have been using 1/4" thickness and 1 1/4' OD for each flat and it seems to work well for a two-piece, two tip rod. (Gary Jones)
I think that there is a chapter in Wayne Cattanach's book on making hex cases. Complete with dimensions etc. (Doug Hall)
I have some bamboo that I thought I would like to make rod tubes out of. Those who have done this before how did you clear the dams etc. I thought I could split in 2 pieces file out the dams and pith then glue back together. Could run a circle saw down the bamboo and clear out as much as possible. I have bit extensions. One section has a big growers mark which I thought would be neat. Advice would be appreciated. (Jim Tefft)
I have made a couple of PVC pipe tubes, what I do is cut them split in half and then hinge the two pieces. Plug each end with a flat piece of either plastic or wood. The reason I like the hinged tube is you are not stretching your arms out trying to get the rod out, just open and pick it up. I think this would be a slick way of making bamboo tubes.
For the plastic tubes I use a thin piece of Kevlar sail material, (scraps acquired from a friend) for the hinge glued with epoxy. Seems to hold up. To hold it shut just some Velcro strips. The ends I leave solid, don't cut in half, that way there is no gap from the cutting. Got the idea for doing this from some of the fancy boxes I've seen. For bamboo a regular hinge might work, the wood workers would have a better idea of fastening, and notching to make everything fit together. (Pete Van Schaack)
I have made a few of these. I initially tried using an extension bit and cutter but found it was very difficult to achieve a smooth side, actually impossible with my gear. I then tried splitting the bamboo and this was much easier, but not as easy to glue together again. I think there may have been a little more shrinking, or release of pressures after I split the length in half and had some difficulty in getting good a perfect fit to rejoin. It is however much easier to clean out the inside and remove any ridges. I have seen bamboo rod cases which are made out a section of bamboo cut with a circular saw, and then hinged so that the sections open apart to access the rod. These can be lined with felt etc. and look very nice but I cannot recall where I have seen the picture of these, possibly Ray Gould's book. I suspect this is the easiest way to do it.
One of the problems with bamboo for a rod case is the section need to be very straight. I mainly make 8' 2 piece rods and if there is a 1" bend over the 4 feet of rod case it will be enough to put a bend in the rod. It is less of a problem with 3 piece rods. (Ian Kearney)
I made a few, but eventually decided it was too much trouble. I rammed a broom handle (actually a shovel handle -- it was bigger) down the middle to knock out most of the dams. Then I fixed the small end of a spare golf club shaft (driver) in my hand drill. Wrapped drywall sanding screen around the other end, and taped the heck out of it. Left one end loose, so that it would flap around. Ran the shaft down the bamboo, turned on the drill, and held on tight!! Before you know it, I had a smooth shaft.
Needless to say, there has to be a better way. It looked like a Chinese fire drill around here for a while.
The hardest part was removing the enamel from the entire section of bamboo. It took hours of sanding. Guess I should've just used the belt sander, but I was dumb enough to try to save power fibers!
I made end caps out of walnut, hand fitted. Wrapped each end with leather. After about a year, the case still began to split....(Harry Boyd)
A question for those of you who use aluminum tubes. What diameter do you use for two piece two tip rods? (Steve Trauthwein)
1 5/8" inside diameter. (John Channer)
Usually 2". (Martin-Darrell)
I use 1 5/8" tubes for both 2 and 3 piece rods. (Harry Boyd)
I like to use the 1 5/8" tubes for all my rods. There is plenty of room inside for all 2-piece rods, plus bag. (Bill Harms)
Where do you get 2" tube and how thick of a wall does the tube come in? Any preferred alloy? (Brad Love)
Depends upon which rod I'm making but either the Golden Witch Classic Rod Tube, or from REC. The Golden Witch tube is about .070 thick, and the REC is about .040. The Golden Witch is extruded, and the REC is drawn. The Golden Witch also makes a fine weapon, should such a thing ever be needed. ;o)
The alloy on both is a 6000 series, but I don't know which one. More than likely 6063, I'm guessing, since that is a commonly extruded/drawn alloy. (Martin-Darrell)
It really depends on the quality/design of the rod bag. If you have a heavy fabric with a flap (or worse, with a flap and a tie), 1 5/8" will be tight if not impossible. (Bob Perry)
I like 1 1/2" if you can find it. Especially on smaller rods 7' or less. 1 5/8" on the larger ones with fatter grips. (Marty DeSapio)
What size tube (1 5/8 or 2") is generally used for storing 7' 4wt (2 tip) bamboo flyrod? (Mark Pohl)
1 1/2" or 1 5/8". (Marty DeSapio)
The rod you describe ought to fit into a 1 5/8 tube. You certainly could use a bigger tube, but I would worry that the larger tube would allow the rod enough movement to damage it if dropped. General "rule" is 1 5/8 for two piece two-tip rods, and 2" for three piece two-tip rods. At least that is what I have seen. (Jeff Schaeffer)
I have an old Payne 8'0" 3/2 that fits in a 1 3/8 ID aluminum tube. I keep putting it in there but I don't know how he did it other than there is no excess material on the rod bag. Every piece has just enough room to fit into it's spot. (Mike Shay)
If the outside diameter of your cork grip is 1" or less then the 1 5/8" tube should be fine. It's the diameter of the grip and the thickness and economy of the bag that really determines the size of the tube needed. I use 1 5/8" on all rods. (Chris McDowell)
I have been given a supply of 1 5/8" aluminum tubing. I have a lathe but not the knowledge or skill to make the threaded hardware. Anyone have an idea where I can get reasonably priced plugs and caps? (Frank Caruso)
Can anyone tell me how long it takes for the PVC Glue stink to completely go away, once a tube has been made?
I made a shipping tube the night before last and I can still smell the glue.
I’ve had the tube open to air out with the opening to the top, but still…. (Ren Monllor)
The stink is from a solvent called cyclohexanone and is slow to evaporate because it has a relatively high boiling point. You can speed it up by warming it to about 150F if your oven will control that low. Otherwise it could take days depending on how sensitive your nose is. (Al Baldauski)
I’m going to have to come up with some other idea. I just might make a tube and not cement it, then put it in a cardboard tube so as to ship. (Ren Monllor)
If you have a temperature control on your heat gun that goes low enough, you might try having it blow down into the tube. The warmth will help the glue's solvent to evaporate and the airflow will move the evaporated solvent out of the tube. A hair dryer might work, too. (Tim Anderson)
I am considering constructing some hex cases from wood in conjunction with a 30 degree router bit, but was wondering about the dimensions of the lumber to utilize. I read somewhere, but can't remember the source that 1/4" thick stock that is 1 1/4" wide would be adequate for storing a three piece two tip rod. Does anyone make their own wooden rod cases? Thanks. (Ron Delesky)
I make wood cases and 1 1/4 inches is a bit much it would give you an I.D. of almost 2 inches. I make mine about 11/8 inches wide that gives me about 11/2 inches I.D. (Larry Downey)
I've been making my hex cases outside strip dimension 1 1/4" (give or take a little), and the inside flat to flat across varies from 1 5/8" to 1 3/4". If you don't get the router set perfect it might take a little off the overall size so better to give it a little that end up with a tube too small. I use the same size for two piece two tip and three piece two tip. Gives me plenty of room in the tube. (Floyd Burkett)
Can anyone recommend a good glue/epoxy for gluing brass (plated?) end caps to aluminum rod tubes? I heard that a particular tile glue was best. (Larry Tusoni)
Here's one way ~ subject the aluminum tube to sub-zero temperature for a period of time ~ heat the brass cap at about 500 degrees for maybe 1/2 hour, and HANDLE WITH CARE when sliding cap onto rod. Soft mallet may be needed, along with adequate gloves. When the dissimilar metals return to room temperature, the cap is on to stay. (Vince Brannick)
Good idea! - but do I have to pin the caps also? ;^) (Larry Tusoni)
I've bought component parts from Golden Witch and assembled them without pins. I've also made my own brass threaded sleeves and caps, and unthreaded bottom caps, and have assembled them in the same manner. The one concern might be the base metal(s) of the plated caps. The parts I've made (and bought) have been solid brass on aluminum tubes. No epoxy or other 'adhesive' used. (Vince Brannick)
I wouldn’t argue with that at all.
I will note that when I’ve heated the end cap, I used a heat gun, AND the epoxy had been smeared on the tube and the cap heating was done OFF the tube. I’m fairly sure I didn’t get to 500 degrees, especially since the shafting epoxy, when cured, “breaks” at about 200. But the heating/cooling principle is quite useful in that application. True enough, Vince. (Steve Yasgur)
I don't know what's "best," or "not best." I use Golfsmith shafting epoxy (used to glue golf club heads to shafts) and haven't lost a brass-plated end cap yet!!
(I think any epoxy you own would be just dandy(!)) (Steve Yasgur)
PS: After posting this, I found out that the Golfsmith epoxy is now only made in black (to match the plastic ferrules on golf clubs). Wouldn't be a problem on the black-finished aluminum tubes, but on a natural aluminum color, you'd have to clean up meticulously with solvent-soaked paper towels.
I use Acraglas Gel because that's what I have. It's a low abuse situation so I would think any glue that is good for use on metals would do the job just fine. (John Channer)
I have always used Loctite Bearing Cement, and don't know whether it is the best or not; it always seems to work, though, and they don't come off. (Peter McKean)
I use Landmark's tubes and solid brass caps, Ron fits the threaded part and leaves the bottom cap off for me, this way I can just buy 6 or so at a time and cut to fit as needed. The bottom cap slip fits and I use 5 minute epoxy to hold them. Quick and easy and I'm not very patient! (Joe Arguello)
Was just thinking ------ I know it is a dangerous thing :-)
Has anyone ever tried Dow 5200 ?
A great adhesive for Marine use. We use it to hold Push Points on our Push Poles for Flats Fishing. Never had one fail. This stuff holds. For that matter it may work well for ferrules, will have to test that. HD carries it in the paint section where the glues are stocked, also most Marine supply stores stock it. It might be worth a try. (James Dempsey)
For those of you who buy rod tubes unassembled or with the butt cap not glued on, what do you use to cut the tubing to length? Does a regular old pipe cutter do the job without mangling the end? (Greg Reeves)
I hate to go high tech on you, but I use a good old fashioned hack saw. Works great. (John Dotson)
Nah, in this case, I just put a metal cutting blade on my industrial sized band saw. But I could hook up a power feed to it... ;-) (Mark Wendt)
A hack saw works very well. (Frank Paul)
I like my metal cutting cutoff saw, but when I used my 'Armstrong' equipment, I'd leave an extra 1/16" or so, wrap some masking tape at the actual measurement wanted and file to the tape edge. You want to be sure that the cutoff is square! (Vince Brannick)
You shouldn’t see the mangled end, ‘cause it’ll be tucked inside the end cap. If the end cap is a plug, then you might get all excited about trimming in a lathe with a parting tool, but otherwise, “Ace is the place with the helpful (hacksaw) man!” (Steve Yasgur)
The cap is a plug and that is why I am concerned about using a hacksaw to make the cut. Not sure I will get it square. That was why I was thinking of using a pipe cutter that rolls around the pipe and cut’s square. (Greg Reeves)
Perhaps you might use the pipe cutter to mark the tube for a square cut with a hacksaw. Pipe cutters tend to roll an inner burr which can be a nuisance with a well-fitted plug. Several layers of masking tape wrapped along the line (on the "good" side) is appropriate because hacksaws can easily jump out of the cut and score the tube. (Tim Anderson)
If the tube is aluminum, couldn’t you cut it almost to legnth and finish it up on a sander set-up perpendicular to the tube?
Just a thought… (Ren Monllor)
If your cutting alum tubing. Put a fine tooth blade (backwards) in your electric miter saw. Cut slowly and it will do the job quite well. (Tom Kurtis)
I use a pipe cutter, because well, that's what I do. After 32 years of plumbing, I have quite a collection of 'em!
Two things to be sure to do if you go this route. Put masking tape on the outside of the tube, or the rollers will mess up the finish on the tube, if it has a finish. Even with plain polished aluminum, it's work to polish the lines out.
The second thing is to deburr the inside lip with a rat tail file after cutting. (Tom Vagell)
Why not use a band saw with a metal cutting blade? Rotating the tube slowly while gently pushing the tube forward should do the trick nicely. Just go slowly and carefully. Just my 2 cents. (Phil Crangi)
Just make sure you deburr the inside and outside of the tube when yer done cutting. That ol' hacksaw can leave some mighty rough, and sometimes painfully sharp edges. (Mark Wendt)
I can see where a pipe cutter might crush the inside, so how about turning a wooden plug (dowel) that would just slide into the tube and support the inside while the pipe's being crushed? (Art Port)
No, it doesn't, unless you try really, really hard to. I cut all my tubes with a tubing cutter and it's easier than falling off a log, even I can't screw it up.I get my tubes long and cut them to what I need, the bottom cap glues on over the tube so I don't even mess with the burr on the inside, it's under the foam rubber pad Ron glues to both the top and bottom caps. (John Channer)
Hacksaw! (Timothy Troester)
A hacksaw works, but make sure there is no rod in the tube before you cut. This is one of the few things that did not happen to me, but it did happen to someone a few years back. I actually do not know who it was. (Jeff Schaeffer)
Do you have a drop saw that you use to cut timber planks? (lumber) in the trade we use Tungsten Carbide tipped saw blades in a drop saw, so common I have one kicking around in my shed at home. The only difference is that one used to cut Aluminum all day ever day has a triple chip configuration instead of double for timber, don't worry you don't need another station in your workshop, just used the standard timber blade. Before starting the saw rub candle wax on the parts of the blade that will make contact, or if you use a metal cutoff wheel (friction blade) rub candle wax over the whole thing, though they don't give anywhere near as good a result. Aluminum so soft and galls as most of you will know, the candle wax lubes it and stops it from jamming. (Andrew Connell)
I have Ron of Landmark leave the cap end rather than the butt plug unassembled. The cap goes over the tube. Cutting the tube to length is not nearly as critical. The only trouble is the cap is slightly undersized and will require some machining to fit. (Don Anderson)
I use a pipe cutter to cut my tubes, I mark the length and mask off both sides of the cut and run the pipe cutter around until it is cut. Yes, there is a burr, which I file down smooth. I then mark off the depth that the cap sets and sand the coating off until I get a tight fit. I do this cause on my first tube the fit was so tight I fractured the cap.
For myself I use PVC pipe as a rod tube the cutting and fitting and cost is so much better, Plus thieves are really not sure what is in the tube and I try and make my stuff as inconspicuous as possible. (Jim Tefft)