A question was asked about removing a ferrule that was epoxied onto a blank, here are the responses:

Gentle heat is great, but then stick the ferrule in a cup of ice.  Wait about 2 minutes, and it will be as if the epoxy were never there.  Scary.  (Jeff Schaeffer)

PS: learned this from Jeff Wagner.

I found out the same thing recently.  You don't even need the ice; just heat it up and let it cool down.  It will slide right off.  (Robert Kope)

Before I smartened up and started using hot melt glue to attach ferrules, I used epoxy. I now need to replace a ferrule. How do I remove the broken one? A heat gun blasting the ferrule for ten minutes last night had no effect.  (Richard Nantel)

Heat it, and then chill it. Might take a couple of tries, ferrule puller is the best way to get a hold of it. DON'T TWIST!!  (Pete Van Schaack)

While the ferrule is hot , you need to pull. You should heat slowly. I love what Ralph Moon says, "You need to heat slowly like you are cooking steak " Heat  from the inside out. If the ferrule is a loss you can pull with pliers . To save the ferrule make yourself a ferrule puller. Drill some holes in 1 inch board about 10 inches long. Cut the holes open with a cut parallel to the sides. Put a piece  of leather on one end to make it a clamp.  (Rich McGaughey)

I would rather not put too much heat on a rod section to remove an epoxied ferrule.  I put the section in my lathe and remove it with a file. No heat involved at all.  (Dave Norling)

I think you're interpreting Mr. Moon correctly, but I don't ever want one of your steaks! The  slow cooking  is for pot roast  (and ferrules). With a steak, you want to sear it quick, exactly the opposite of what (I hope) Ralph suggests!  (Art Port)

Does anyone know of away to remove these epoxied on ferrules?  (Pete Van Schaack)

Gentle application of heat (heat gun, alcohol lamp) will  break down almost all 5 minute epoxies.  Give the ferrule short bursts of heat in order to prevent cooking your finish or delaminating the rod sections.

Be sure to point the ferrule away from you though.  Sometimes heating the epoxy forms a gas which propels the ferrule rather violently.  (Harry Boyd)

Can someone give me some advice about cleaning epoxy off the interior of ferrules?

I'm taking the parts off a rod and I'm planning to reuse the ferrules... can I use acetone to break down the epoxy to make it easier to remove?  Or should I try a "mechanical" method?

Or is it worth just getting another set and not risking poor adhesion?  (Eric Koehler)

Place the ferrules in a small container with white vinegar for several days.  The epoxy will eventually turn milky and become soft. At least that is what Devcon Epoxy will do.  (Tony Spezio)

An overnight soak in acetone should loosen the epoxy enough so that it can be cleaned out.  (Kyle Druey)

How would one go about removing old Power bond from NS?  Without ruining the ferrule?  (Robert Hicks)

Are they turned from solid stock or soldered?  If soldered I'd try soaking them in boiling water first, and then scrape with the dental picks and attack with various Dremel Tool bits.  If they are solid you could put them in the oven or hit them with the heat gun without worry.  (Brian Creek)

I recently had to remove a male ferrule I had overlapped.  The ferrule was attached with PU glue.  I was very impressed by the strength of the bond.  It took repeated heatings to break down the glue and I basically had to destroy the ferrule (one tip rod, so I had an extra male) to remove it.  Any thoughts on the longevity of PU on ferrules.  In the short term the bond is excellent.  (Lee Orr)

I am trying to remove a male ferrule from a 10.5' Pezon Michel. I have warmed it to where the ferrule cement is boiling but it is not moving. I am suspecting the ferrule is pinned but I have not been able to find it. Does anyone know where PM pinned the male ferrule? Any tips on how to locate it is appreciated. (Morten Lovstad)

When I have to remove a pin that I can't seem to find, I dig out a black Sharpie.  Color the entire ferrule with the Sharpie, then lightly cuff the ferrule with 4/0 steel wool.  Most times, you'll get a small  black ring or part of a ring where the pin is.  (Mark Wendt)

I polished the ferrule and could not see any sign of a pin so I made a proper device to hold it in the vice and managed to pull it off. No pin.  Next time I will try the methods suggested, Sharpie and soot from a candle.  (Morten Lovstad)

Sometimes the fit is so snug, that even heating up the glue enough for it to bubble and giving it a quick pull isn't enough.  When that happens, you need to be real careful to a) not add more heat until the cane is charred, b) delaminating or breaking the cane at the ferrule station by pulling it too hard.  Sometimes, heating it up, then dowsing the ferrule in ice water will help break it loose.   (Mark Wendt)

If you cannot find the pin just cut the ferrule clean in half's with your dremel drill and a diamond cut of disk.  If you go really slow you can do this without any damage to the bamboo.  Avoid excessive heating at all cost it will snap the bamboo under the ferrule when you pull it.  If it does not move the first time after heating up it almost always means there's a pin somewhere.  Mark's idea sounds is a good one.  (Gary Nicholson)

Well I did get this solved, sort of.  But I find it easier to replace the bamboo than the Pezon et Michel ferrule.

The rod section was left in water for a long time on a trip to Alaska and delaminated.  The owner, who wants to be anonymous, decided to add some glue and bound it up with a fly line.  The result was a section with a 90 degree twist and shaped like a J.  I am now soaking the tip to delaminate the section.  Then I will dry it in the oven, clean the triangles and reglue.  I am prepared to make a new section if it goes bad.  I will keep you informed.

The problems started when I told the owner 'no problem I can fix it'.  (Morten Lovstad)

Funny how that happens, idn't it?   ;-)   (Mark Wendt)

The rest of the story.  The section did delaminate in a short week.  Looked like it was glued with hide glue, but I am not sure.  I cleaned it up in the planing form by gentle scraping and after it was dried I glued it back together, this time with TB III.  The section came out straight and without the twist.  Happy ending!  (Morten Lovstad)